I visited Salton Sea back in 2014 and always had the intention of coming back. I couldn’t help but add it to my Death Valley trip, as it’s not all that far away (relative to the massive distances in this part of the United States).
This time, I resolved to visit Slab City and see the East Jesus art area. During my last visit, I ran out of time and decided to visit the Davis-Schrimpf Seep Fields. Turns out, this was a good decision, as the seep fields were not accessible this time around.
If you’re interested in seeing photos from my 2014 visit, find them here.
SALTON SEA
I started the day at North Shore Beach and Yacht Club, on the north northeastern tip of Salton Sea. Sounds fancy, right? Not really. It seems like people may still use the yacht club building, but there are no boats around…at least in January. Comparing photos from 8 years ago, it appears that the lake has receded significantly.
Quick history break! In the early 1900s, Salton Sea was accidentally formed from a spill of the Colorado River. For two years, the water filled the Salton Basin, forming the lake that we have now. There is no out- or inflow to the lake. So, as the water evaporates or seeps into the ground, the lake’s salinity rises.
During the 1950s and 1960s, Salton Sea became a tourist destination. Several towns and resorts popped up, and for the next 20 years, people enjoyed the warm water and relaxing beaches. However, by the 1970s, the lake’s salinity and algae levels rose due to evaporation and fertilizer run-off. It soon became too toxic for humans – not to mention the mass fish and bird die-offs.
People still live in the area today, but tourists flock for the beach art installations and generally interesting history rather than a day at the beach.
BOMBAY BEACH
Whoa, this placed changed over the last 8 years. Not a bad thing! There’s a ton of sculptures on the beach now, and many of the homes have either been remodeled or torn down.
I got here in the morning, and there was still a haze on the horizon. Asked around, and people said that it shows up quite often, but no one knows why.
SALVATION MOUNTAIN
This place is so fascinating that I visited twice during my trip. I think it’s because of the utter dedication that Leonard Knight had to create Salvation Mountain out of straw, sand and paint. It’s said that Mr. Knight came to Slab City in 1984 intending to stay a week or two. He ended up staying until his death in 2014.
Today, there’s a group of volunteers who care for the site and watch to make sure no one damages the delicate sculptures and vehicles in the installation.
In 2014, visitors were allowed to walk on the Yellow Brick Road section of the mountain. It lead up to a plateau above the word “love”. From personal experience, it was a very slippery walk! Probably best for both the mountain and safety of visitors that it’s closed.
There are hundreds of used paint cans stored in a section of the grounds. It puts into perspective how much paint has been used to make the mountain.
Several vehicles are scattered on site. This one is the most historically important, as Leonard Knight lived here for 25 years. The couch that he slept on was removed from the truck and put on display. There was no air conditioning here, and summer temperatures in the Sonoran Desert can reach 125F/52C.
EAST JESUS
Driving further into Slab City, you’ll inevitably come across East Jesus. It’s a large sculpture park, but also seems like people live here. I’ve heard that there are different sectors in Slab City. This is definitely the artist in residence sector! For more information, click here to visit the East Jesus official website.
There was a large Black Lives Matter installation – not sure if this was made after George Floyd was murdered in 2020 or before. This was a sobering, emotional installation and much needed to remind people of the sh!t that happens in the United States. But it has to be said – this installation shouldn’t have to be here. These people should not have been murdered in the first place. Everyone deserves to live a secure life free from discrimination. So while it’s so important that artists bring a mirror to the face of systemic racism, it would be great if one day we can celebrate Black joy rather than Black pain.
There are several small installations that depict dolphins as the enemy.
The TV installation is probably the most famous piece of art at East Jesus.
Even with the dolls (I’m not a fan of using dolls in art), this was probably my favorite. I can relate, even though I’m not religious.